Les Sources de Caudalie, Bordeaux

I certainly never imagined that 2020 would begin as it has – with restaurants closed, travel shut down, and everyone staying home as much as possible. As we all wait and hope, I’m writing about some travel memories that I haven’t yet shared…

Les Sources de Caudalie is the kind of place one dreams about even in the best of times – a sort of fairy tale land complete with swans. It’s a small hotel and spa, plus a Michelin starred restaurant, on the grounds of Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in Graves.

Upon arrival, you’re welcomed with a basket of fruit and some canelés – a rich pastry that’s said to have originated to make use of the egg yolks left over after the whites were used to clarify wine. D ate a lot of canelés during our stay!

We spent part of our first visit in the Ile Aux Oiseaux suite, a magical little cottage set on stilts over the lake. Nothing could be more tranquil than sitting out on the porch watching the swans glide by!

Inside, everything was soft and gauzy, in the palest colors.

The rest of the grounds were a riot of color in the spring, with flowers everywhere and beautiful blue skies!

We visited the Chateau one day for a wine tour – one of the most notable elements is that unlike most wineries in Bordeaux, Smith Haut Lafitte has its own cooperage and produces its own barrels.

There is also a small wine shop and cafe where we ate a few times – light meals like baguette with jarred tuna in olive oil.

A year after our first visit, we returned; this time we had a small suite in one of the new buildings on the property, overlooking the vineyards.

And we explored the farm! Horses…

Chickens…

And a family of goats! I had fun watching this papa goat teaching his kid how to heatbutt.

One evening, we had dinner at La Grand’Vigne. But first – cocktails on the patio!

I especially loved the beautiful little hors d’oeuvres. All the dishes were inspired by the region and La Source’s own gardens – langoustine with caviar, cauliflower, sea bass, lamb. Of course the wines were magnificent as well, some white Bordeaux (including Smith Haut Lafitte 2010) and a 1999 Lafitte Rothschild.

Dessert was strawberries with Sauternes, an ancient–looking bottle of 1985 Chateau de Fargues. Spectacular!

Until we meet again, I’ll be dreaming of you…