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Good Taste is the Worst Vice

12 Bones, Asheville

August 24, 2011

No visit to North Carolina is complete without some barbecue, so during my recent visit to Asheville, we headed to 12 Bones for a late lunch.  Even at 3pm, there was a line out the door, but it moved quickly and soon we were inside, face to face with the colorful chalkboards that list the day’s menu and specials.

We wanted to taste as many things as possible, so we ordered generously – pulled pork, two kinds of ribs (classic brown sugar rub and blueberry chipotle), sliced brisket, and smoked chicken.  Then came the sides – jalapeno cheese grits, mac ‘n’ cheese, baked beans, cole slaw, and corn pudding.  I think we ended up with some cornbread too.

After a stop for some sodas – root beer for me and Cheerwine for everyone else – we settled at our table in the dining room, a no-frills former service station.  When our food came out, we all panicked momentarily as metal pie plates quickly covered every spare inch of the surface.  Did we overdo it?

Ribs with sides

I started with the brown sugar ribs, which were fall-off-the-bone tender and flavorful, with caramelized edges.  The baked beans that came alongside were delicious, smoky and just a little sweet.

Next, a pile of moist and tender pulled pork, with which I sampled a few of 12 Bones’ sauces – tomato, mustard, or vinegar based.  I also added some of the sauces to the brisket, which was the least memorable among the meats I tried; good, but a bit understated compared to Texas-style barbecue.

Pulled pork

Corn pudding

Once I took a bite of the corn pudding, though, I forgot all about Texas.  It’s rich and custardy and absurdly tasty, studded with corn and poblanos.  And somehow, despite all the cream and butter, it feels light.  Now I understand why a woman behind us in line was so insistent that we order it.  (If you’re curious, the recipe’s online; I will definitely be trying it.)

We ate until we couldn’t eat any more, and then headed out into the cool afternoon for some welcome exercise, a walk around the North Carolina Arboretum.  

And I’ll admit, before we left, I stopped by 12 Bones’ to-go counter to buy a pint of corn pudding to take home.


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