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Good Taste is the Worst Vice

Cheese soufflé

February 2, 2011

I love soufflés.  There’s something that seems so special about a towering soufflé coming to the table – it’s always an occasion.  I know, by heart, the Chicago restaurants that offer dessert soufflés, and rarely turn one down if I see it on the menu.

Restaurant soufflés are one thing, though, and homemade is quite another.  I’ve seen my uncle make them – wonderful Grand Marnier soufflés with crème anglaise – but he’s an exemplary chef.  Once, under his watchful eye (and with his assistance), I did manage to produce soufflés for four.

So it seemed like a worthy challenge to learn to make my own soufflés.  I started with a blue cheese soufflé baked in one large dish – and it worked!  (I wonder if cheesy soufflés are more forgiving or sturdier than sweet ones?)  Currently I like Gruyere soufflés.  They’re wonderful served for lunch or a light dinner with a simple green salad – light, flavorful, but hearty.

I admit, soufflés are a bit time consuming…but they’re not too difficult.  Making the base is straightforward, then you simply beat the egg whites and fold them in.  And don’t peek into the oven!

 ***

Gruyere soufflé

~1/4 cup grated Parmesan
3 tbsp salted butter plus extra for greasing soufflé dish
3 tbsp flour
1 cup milk (I use skim)
Pinch of nutmeg
Pinch of cayenne
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
4 egg yolks
4 oz grated Gruyere*
5 egg whites
1/8 tsp cream of tartar

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Butter the bottom and sides of an 8 cup soufflé dish, then coat with grated Parmesan.

Warm milk in small pan, until steaming.  Melt butter in medium pan; add flour and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring constantly.

Remove from heat and whisk in hot milk and spices, then cook about 1 minute over low heat. Whisk in egg yolks one at a time (again, off the heat); transfer to large bowl and stir in grated cheese.

Beat egg whites and cream of tartar to stiff peaks.  Whisk about a quarter of the egg white mixture into the soufflé base to lighten, then fold in the remainder gently.

Pour into prepared soufflé dish and trace a circle around the top of the soufflé with your finger or a spatula.

Turn oven down to 375 degrees and bake soufflé for 30-35 minutes.  Serve immediately! (Though surprisingly, cheese soufflés make pretty good leftovers – they become like a fluffy, free form, crustless quiche.)

* You could substitute blue cheese or cheddar for Gruyere


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