EL Ideas, Chicago

EL Ideas has grown up since I last wrote about it.  The interior was expanded to allow for more diners, and it’s held a Michelin star for the past two years.

But being grown up doesn’t mean EL has lost any of its creativity and irreverence.

Your first dish comes silverware-free and you’re instructed to “lick the plate” (it’s funny to see the expressions of first-timers at this point); there’s the most unusual – and delicious – leek and potato soup you’ll ever have, thanks to the addition of liquid nitrogen vanilla ice cream, and you wrap up with self-serve coffee in the kitchen and a smiley face spatula to scoop up chocolate “cake batter”.

Here are our 13 courses:

Steelhead yolk / creme fraiche / radish aka “lick the plate”

Sable squash / fennel / black garlic I particularly enjoyed the braised fennel

Lobster endive / saffron / macadamia / artichoke Aspic is back!  The lobster and tender artichoke heart were delicious

Char eggplant / sesame / nasturtium The fish was delicious; the eggplant faded into the background

French fries & Ice cream potato / leek / vanilla Sweet, savory, and salty – inspired by dipping Wendy’s fries in a Frosty

Tomato soup grilled cheese It’s a real challenge to follow the ice cream dish, but this little bite of tomato and grilled cheese manages it!

Eel watermelon / garlic scape / tamarind / matsutake A lovely presentation – my favorite part was the sweet, end of summer watermelon

Quail pepper / manchego / crowder pea The dollops of different pepper purees were delicious

Yam calf / matsutake / broccoli / miso Beer battered tempura – good, but the least memorable dish

Bison corn / beet / lardo Fabulous piece of meat!

Financier cherry / brown butter / lime Mostly classic flavors enlivened by the lime, yum

Banana rice pudding / guajillo / horchata / chocolate Delicate rice flavored flan

Spatula chocolate / cake / batter