• Home
  • About
  • Recipes
  • restaurants
    • Chicago
    • Rest of U.S.
    • Europe
    • Japan
    • Rest of world
  • Travel
    • Alaska
    • Anguilla
    • Austria
    • Central/South America
    • France
    • Ireland
    • Japan
    • Washington DC
    • Elsewhere
    • Hotels
    • Airlines
  • Resources

Good Taste is the Worst Vice

Next: Alinea

February 3, 2019

The creativity in the Next: Alinea menus isn’t shown through food per se – the dishes and the plating are replicated precisely – but in the selection and combination of courses.  Unlike the French Laundry menu, which captured a menu from a particular date in its entirety, the Alinea menus were assembled across a decade of options.

Of course, some of the most iconic presentations and dishes are included, like the slowly deflating “pillow of lavender air”, “hot potato cold potato” (my favorite, sadly now retired from Alinea itself), and the tabletop dessert.

The Next: Alinea 2005-2010 menu made me think the boldness and originality of Alinea in its youth – big statements and dramatic presentation, like the aforementioned plate-on-a-pillow, turbot served surrounded by flowers whose aroma is released by boiling water (I found it overwhelmingly floral), and a balloon of mozzarella playfully plated to resemble a snail.

The Next: Alinea 2011-2015 menu showed more nuance and confidence, Alinea having come into its own.  There are influences from around the world, flavors that are explored in a quieter way, but still plenty of whimsy – salsify jerky woven into a centerpiece of branches, an oyster leaf (that tastes just like oyster) in an oyster shell, tapas served atop photos of themselves, and a cube of scallop fried to resemble agedashi tofu.

A few highlights:

Alinea 2005-2010

hot potato • heart of palm • oyster cream • skate • english peas

tomato • crab • lamb • wild turbot

***

Alinea 2011-2015

camoflage • trout roe • driftwood • pebble • eggplant

corn • tapas • scallop

duck • cheesecake

milk chocolate

***

How often does one have the chance to dine at what is, basically, a retrospective by a restaurant of itself?  It was so interesting to see the evolution across the years and the thought that has clearly gone into every element.  And of course it was fun to eat too!


« Delicious dining aboard Saroche
Kumiko, Chicago »

you may also like

  • Ballyfin, Ireland
  • Homemade mochi
  • A l’Etoile d’Or, Paris
  • Fat Ptarmigan, Anchorage AK

Comments

  1. Liz F says

    February 3, 2019 at 3:35 pm

    Wow Jennifer! Your explanation of the menus is very informative – but the difference between the two menus is powerful captured in your images. The first dinner looked amazing but the second looked both amazing and dramatic. Also, I like the new look of your blog! Keep up your stream of information and good times (well some better than others)!

I'm Jen. Join me on my food and travel adventures!

Learn more →

connect with me

  • Bloglovin
  • Email
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • RSS
  • Twitter

follow via email

Archives

Must reads

Five favorite food books

Hallstatt, Austria

Lemon buttermilk bundt cake

Going to market in Bonnieux, France

Alaskan beer battered halibut

Copyright © 2025 · Good Taste is the Worst Vice Design by High Note Designs

Copyright © 2025 · Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in