North Face Lodge, Denali Alaska

Most people only see Denali National Park from the windows of a bus – that’s how I first experienced it as a child.  An all-day trip may get you only to the Eielson Visitor Center at Mile 66 of the park road and back, 4 hours each way.  But 30 miles farther along, there’s some private land with a few small lodges.

And that’s where you’ll find North Face Lodge.

For a lucky few who plan a year in advance (or more!), booking at North Face means you can stay deep inside the park, exploring on guided hikes far away from other visitors, canoeing on Wonder Lake, or simply reading beside a roaring fire.

If it’s clear,  there’s a view of Denali (formerly known as Mt McKinley) right from the lodge.  It was overcast and rainy every day during our stay, so this became a running joke – did any of us believe The Mountain was really out there?

Even without a Denali sighting, it’s a really special experience.  Endless tundra extends all around the lodge, springy as a giant mattress and stippled with wild blueberries.  I set off one afternoon to collect some, bounding across the tundra as if I were in a bounce house.  Fun!

The lodge has just 15 rooms, so even on a rainy afternoon there’s plenty of space in the living room by the fire.  It’s a wonderful place to read.  And there are some interesting books to peruse, including one of Alaksan photos and essays by a Japanese photographer, Michio Hoshino.  His photos are marvelous, but I found myself especially engrossed by his writing, even in translation.

The rooms are basic but comfortable: twin beds with a bedside table between them, a narrow table and chair to serve as a desk beneath the window, and a small sink outside the bathroom.

My bed was wonderful, with soft Cuddledown sheets (I’ve since bought my own set for home), a homey plaid wool blanket, plump pillows, and a comforter.

Falling into that cozy bed, after busy days outdoors and delicious meals, it’s no wonder I slept deeply every night!