To understand the thinking behind Narisawa, you must understand satoyama. It's a term unique to Japan that refers to countryside where people live in harmony with nature, farming, fishing, and foraging (the translation is village - hill). Narisawa's explanation: Japan is surrounded by forests ... continue reading...
Hoshinoya Tokyo
Imagine an open-air onsen hot spring bath, twenty stories above the Otemachi financial district. Or an elevator with pristine tatami mat flooring, whisking you - shoeless - from the streets of Tokyo to a quiet, shoji screen-lined hall. The Hoshinoya Tokyo is filled with these delightfully ... continue reading...
Hoshinoya Kyoto
Want to vacation like a Heian noble? Step onto one of the Hoshinoya's unassuming wooden boats, and 10 minutes later you're in another world, far from the thronging crowds and bustle of Arashiyama's main streets. Out here, the river cuts between steep wooded hills with rocky banks. Ahead, ... continue reading...
Kimono and ikebana
At any site in Kyoto, you'll see dozens of kimono-clad tourists. I thought it would be fun to join them and have a few photos taken! Step one is choosing the kimono and obi. Though the shop had racks and racks of options, it turned out that only a few were long enough for me - apparently I am ... continue reading...
Tokyo by night
D and I are not night owls, especially when we're traveling - jetlag and busy days always result in us going to bed early. But on this trip, I decided to stay up late enough to see Tokyo by night. And since I needed someone to help me see me a variety of interesting places, I arranged a ... continue reading...
Our meals at the Tawaraya
The food at a ryokan is an essential part of the experience, as both breakfast and dinner are included. At the Tawaraya, we had some of the best meals of our recent trip. Our first dinner was kaiseki, served with perfect timing and grace by our room attendant, Suzu, and her assistant, Yo. Each ... continue reading...
Tawaraya ryokan, Kyoto
Ryokan, or traditional Japanese inns, are not for everyone. They are dim, quiet, restful places sans lobby, bar, or spa. You'll surrender your shoes at the entrance and see them again only when you depart. Almost all of your time is passed relaxing in your room, where you'll also have breakfast ... continue reading...
Double chocolate cookies
My current choco-obsession is these double chocolate cookies, inspired by Flour Bakery in Boston. I use a combination of 65% and 70% chocolate in addition to the unsweetened chocolate, and I've become a fan of the "couverture discs" that come in large bags meant for professional use. They're ... continue reading...
Lunch at L’Effervescence, Tokyo
L'Effervescence is a five minute walk from the charming Nezu Museum in Aoyama, making it an ideal spot for lunch after a morning museum visit. At least, that was my plan - until I discovered that Nezu was closed during most of our visit for a change of exhibition. So our lunch at L'Effervescence ... continue reading...
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