Good Taste is the Worst Vice

Asakusa and Kanda Yabu Soba, Tokyo

I woke up bright and early on our first morning in Japan excited to start exploring... only to check the clock and find that it was 11:30pm.  Oops.  Jetlag.  Back to bed. We rose instead at the more realistic hour of 5:30am, took our time getting ready, had breakfast, and caught the metro to ... continue reading...


Hiiragiya ryokan, Kyoto, Part 1

I was homesick for the Hiiragiya after we left. Homesick for a hotel?  Really? Turns out that yes, it's possible.  A beautifully traditional ryokan like Hiiragiya is as luxurious and indulgent as any top hotel, but much more personal. When we returned from sightseeing in the afternoon, our ... continue reading...


Meiji Shrine and Afuri ramen, Tokyo

For our last day in Tokyo, we visited the west side of the city to see the Meiji Shrine and walk around neighboring Harajuku.  The two border each other (separated by the JR Yamanote line tracks) but couldn't be more different. Meiji Shrine (aka Meiji Jingu) is located in a forest park.  On ... continue reading...


Ueno anago, Miyajimaguchi Japan

After our time on the island of Miyajima, we took the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi (the name essentially means "portal to Miyajima") so that I could introduce D to one of my favorite places from my prior visits to Japan: Ueno. It's an extremely popular restaurant that's over 100 years old and ... continue reading...


Miyajima and momiji manju, Japan

The little island of Miyajima is a must-see attraction for tourists and Japanese schoolkids on field trips, and the ferry we took that morning was packed with plenty of both. It's offshore from Hiroshima in the Inland Sea, and is best known for the much-photographed red-orange torii gate that ... continue reading...


Gen Yamamoto cocktails, Tokyo

Kiwi with matcha and sake Gen Yamamoto serves truly lovely cocktails - simple, elegant, and seasonal. It's omakase for drinks, chef's choice based on what's good in the market.  The only decision you need to make is between the 4 or 6 course menu.  (Definitely the 6 course!) The ... continue reading...


A walk on the Philosopher’s Path, Kyoto

The Philosopher's Path is about a mile of stone walkway, stretching between Ginkakuji at the north end and the Nanzenji area at the south end. We set off to walk the entire length.  The rain had washed down most of the remaining cherry blossoms, but it was peaceful and pretty to stroll along the ... continue reading...


Tempura Matsu, Arashiyama, Kyoto

I never would have discovered Tempura Matsu in Kyoto if it weren't for chef Takashi Yagahashi in Chicago (of Slurping Turtle and the now-retired Takashi).  Definitely a stellar recommendation - not only because of the fantastic food, but also because of the warm, welcoming hospitality. Matsu is ... continue reading...


Rokuyosha coffee, Kyoto

We ended up in Rokuyosha coffee by accident on our first afternoon in Kyoto, killing time before we could check into our ryokan.  I had a good feeling about the place based on the vintage-looking storefront. It feels like the 1950s inside, with wood paneling, low leather banquettes, and green ... continue reading...