Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is probably the most recognizable site in Kyoto - the shimmering gold leafed building is beautiful in any light and any season. Across town is Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion - thus nicknamed because it was originally meant to be covered in silver leaf and, perhaps ... continue reading...
Chatei Hatou coffee, Tokyo
At first glance, Chatei Hatou might seem more European than Japanese - the entryway is very Swiss chalet and there are enough porcelain teacups lining the walls to make an English granny proud. And it's a coffee shop, not exactly the first beverage you think of in Japan. But there's quite a ... continue reading...
Tokyo Ramen Street (and ticket machine how tos)
Our journey to Tokyo Station Ramen Street is not an easy one. I can't overstate how massive the station itself is: endless passageways, multiple levels, and seemingly thousands of tiny shops and restaurants. Should we head towards the Yaesu North, South, or Central Exit? Oops, distraction ... continue reading...
Sawada, Tokyo
Sawada is a classic high end Tokyo sushi restaurant: a six seat counter manned by the chef himself, with one assistant (his wife, in this case). We arrived just before noon, waiting on the tiny third floor landing outside the restaurant's shoji door until Sawada-san's wife slid it open to welcome ... continue reading...
Himeji-jo and Ittetsu ramen, Japan
Himeji is one of the best-known castles in Japan; when we visited, it had just been unveiled after a 5 year renovation, so a half day trip from Osaka seemed like a good idea. We walked to the castle from the train station, watching it get bigger and bigger... Amazing how high the foundation ... continue reading...
Wagashi at Tokyo Mise (Tsuruya Yoshinobu)
After a whirlwind exploration of the Mitsukoshi department store (especially its labyrinthine food halls!), D and I were in the mood for a break. The perfect place was across the street: Tokyo Mise, a shop and café run by Tsuruya Yoshinobu, a Kyoto-based wagashi maker. Wagashi are traditional ... continue reading...
Yakitori under the tracks at Yurokucho, Tokyo
One evening in Tokyo, we headed out for some yakitori under the JR tracks near Yurokucho station - conveniently just a few blocks from our hotel! There are quite a few restaurants in the area, but only two in the actual railroad underpass - one sponsored by Kirin and the other by Asahi. D ... continue reading...
(Jimbocho) Den, Tokyo
My favorite image from our dinner at Den isn't one that I captured on camera. As we walked away into the cool night, I looked back to see the entire staff standing outside the restaurant and waving enthusiastically until we turned the corner. It was a wonderful introduction to classic Japanese ... continue reading...
Back from Japan!
We're back from Japan and I'm fairly jetlagged, and also counting up the things I miss... The cheerful, polite rituals that govern so much of daily life, especially at shops and restaurants Toilets with lids that open and close automatically, with warm seats (and lots of other buttons, ... continue reading...
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