Good Taste is the Worst Vice

Tempura Matsu, Arashiyama, Kyoto

I never would have discovered Tempura Matsu in Kyoto if it weren't for chef Takashi Yagahashi in Chicago (of Slurping Turtle and the now-retired Takashi).  Definitely a stellar recommendation - not only because of the fantastic food, but also because of the warm, welcoming hospitality. Matsu is ... continue reading...


Rokuyosha coffee, Kyoto

We ended up in Rokuyosha coffee by accident on our first afternoon in Kyoto, killing time before we could check into our ryokan.  I had a good feeling about the place based on the vintage-looking storefront. It feels like the 1950s inside, with wood paneling, low leather banquettes, and green ... continue reading...


Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji, Kyoto

Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is probably the most recognizable site in Kyoto - the shimmering gold leafed building is beautiful in any light and any season. Across town is Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion - thus nicknamed because it was originally meant to be covered in silver leaf and, perhaps ... continue reading...


Chatei Hatou coffee, Tokyo

At first glance, Chatei Hatou might seem more European than Japanese - the entryway is very Swiss chalet and there are enough porcelain teacups lining the walls to make an English granny proud.  And it's a coffee shop, not exactly the first beverage you think of in Japan. But there's quite a ... continue reading...


Tokyo Ramen Street (and ticket machine how tos)

Our journey to Tokyo Station Ramen Street is not an easy one.  I can't overstate how massive the station itself is: endless passageways, multiple levels, and seemingly thousands of tiny shops and restaurants. Should we head towards the Yaesu North, South, or Central Exit?  Oops, distraction ... continue reading...


Sawada, Tokyo

Sawada is a classic high end Tokyo sushi restaurant: a six seat counter manned by the chef himself, with one assistant (his wife, in this case). We arrived just before noon, waiting on the tiny third floor landing outside the restaurant's shoji door until Sawada-san's wife slid it open to welcome ... continue reading...


Himeji-jo and Ittetsu ramen, Japan

Himeji is one of the best-known castles in Japan; when we visited, it had just been unveiled after a 5 year renovation, so a half day trip from Osaka seemed like a good idea. We walked to the castle from the train station, watching it get bigger and bigger...  Amazing how high the foundation ... continue reading...


Wagashi at Tokyo Mise (Tsuruya Yoshinobu)

After a whirlwind exploration of the Mitsukoshi department store (especially its labyrinthine food halls!), D and I were in the mood for a break. The perfect place was across the street: Tokyo Mise, a shop and café run by Tsuruya Yoshinobu, a Kyoto-based wagashi maker.  Wagashi are traditional ... continue reading...


Yakitori under the tracks at Yurokucho, Tokyo

One evening in Tokyo, we headed out for some yakitori under the JR tracks near Yurokucho station - conveniently just a few blocks from our hotel! There are quite a few restaurants in the area, but only two in the actual railroad underpass - one sponsored by Kirin and the other by Asahi.  D ... continue reading...