Kiwi with matcha and sake Gen Yamamoto serves truly lovely cocktails - simple, elegant, and seasonal. It's omakase for drinks, chef's choice based on what's good in the market. The only decision you need to make is between the 4 or 6 course menu. (Definitely the 6 course!) The ... continue reading...
A walk on the Philosopher’s Path, Kyoto
The Philosopher's Path is about a mile of stone walkway, stretching between Ginkakuji at the north end and the Nanzenji area at the south end. We set off to walk the entire length. The rain had washed down most of the remaining cherry blossoms, but it was peaceful and pretty to stroll along the ... continue reading...
Tempura Matsu, Arashiyama, Kyoto
I never would have discovered Tempura Matsu in Kyoto if it weren't for chef Takashi Yagahashi in Chicago (of Slurping Turtle and the now-retired Takashi). Definitely a stellar recommendation - not only because of the fantastic food, but also because of the warm, welcoming hospitality. Matsu is ... continue reading...
Rokuyosha coffee, Kyoto
We ended up in Rokuyosha coffee by accident on our first afternoon in Kyoto, killing time before we could check into our ryokan. I had a good feeling about the place based on the vintage-looking storefront. It feels like the 1950s inside, with wood paneling, low leather banquettes, and green ... continue reading...
Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji, Kyoto
Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is probably the most recognizable site in Kyoto - the shimmering gold leafed building is beautiful in any light and any season. Across town is Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion - thus nicknamed because it was originally meant to be covered in silver leaf and, perhaps ... continue reading...
Chatei Hatou coffee, Tokyo
At first glance, Chatei Hatou might seem more European than Japanese - the entryway is very Swiss chalet and there are enough porcelain teacups lining the walls to make an English granny proud. And it's a coffee shop, not exactly the first beverage you think of in Japan. But there's quite a ... continue reading...
Tokyo Ramen Street (and ticket machine how tos)
Our journey to Tokyo Station Ramen Street is not an easy one. I can't overstate how massive the station itself is: endless passageways, multiple levels, and seemingly thousands of tiny shops and restaurants. Should we head towards the Yaesu North, South, or Central Exit? Oops, distraction ... continue reading...
Sawada, Tokyo
Sawada is a classic high end Tokyo sushi restaurant: a six seat counter manned by the chef himself, with one assistant (his wife, in this case). We arrived just before noon, waiting on the tiny third floor landing outside the restaurant's shoji door until Sawada-san's wife slid it open to welcome ... continue reading...
Himeji-jo and Ittetsu ramen, Japan
Himeji is one of the best-known castles in Japan; when we visited, it had just been unveiled after a 5 year renovation, so a half day trip from Osaka seemed like a good idea. We walked to the castle from the train station, watching it get bigger and bigger... Amazing how high the foundation ... continue reading...
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